"The Antinomy of Surfing. In essence, it is the purest form of altruistic selfishness, where the pursuit of fullfilment for the ego and the soul are satisfied with the mundane and the natural. The endless but scarce gifts from the ocean ephimerallly appease the relentlessly insatiable need for wave riding: a dichotomy of states. Those who master this art portray insouciant attitude and effortless prowess, obversely displaying belligerent localism and strenuosity in molding to the norm. It is a reflection of the shore itself, where waves crash violently unleashing anarchic chaos within our awareness, while beneath the surface lies a realm that calmly sways unifying rhythmic serenity unto our conciseness. All of this in pursuit of the insurmountable oxymoron of wave barrel-riding, an arduous endeavour to venture inward with the sole purpose of egressing to quietude. The shapeless fluid the rider circumvents submerging into,  folds within itself moulding the grail they seek to be engulfed within. An act suffused with harmonic chaos amid a deadly woomb to achieve an aimless purpose.  Its all coherently contradictory making senseless sense."

― El Makaira

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